![]() It's quite humid on the ocean front here.Ĭrinkling is caused when a layer of paint dries at a different rate from a layer below it. I paint outside where it's very humid, but take it inside in my empty guest room where it can dry undisturbed in the drier air conditioning. I'm still experimenting with doing final polishing steps myself so I'll let someone else speak to that issue. I keep the rocket horizontal and constantly spin it as much as possible while it dries to avoid this. I generally hold the can much closer than the instructions say you should if I'm trying to get a nice final gloss coat, just keep the can moving at all times to avoid a buildup that can run or sag. ![]() If it's meant to be the top final coat I'll just quit using that can, get another one, and screw with it later. Either the nozzle is partially clogged, I'm holding the can too far away and the paint is half dried by the time it lands on the rocket, the can isn't shaken up enough and/or near the bottom of the can. Sometimes though the can still wants to sort of just "spittle", for me this seems to be one of a few things. Set it up horizontally to dry (hopefully you painted it that way as well) somewhere dust free. Use a tack cloth and try to paint in a dust free environment as possible. I would appreciate a real explanation about this from you paint experts. I assume that this is a result of the bottom coat trying to dry while being covered by the top layer. Crinkles: it looks as if a microscopic mountain range is trying to push up through the top coat from below. I think I've noticed that if I spray another color coat, over a still-wet rustoleum coat, that as it dries "crinkles" develop. ![]() ![]() I'm about to attempt my first clear coat over this final color coat, but am waiting to find out about polishing the color coat first. My paint process is simple: Primer, wet sand (800 g), 1st color coat, wet sand, then final color coat. Can this be polished out, AND how is paint polishing done anyway? Even after maintaining a dust free paint environment AND shaking the ssip out of the can, I still have stuff (lint/hair looking stuff) in the final paint-coat finish. I've recently discovered that I am not a paint expert. If brushing that doesn't work too well since the contact of the brush tends to disrupt the original application.So. If you are spraying the paint, I find that you can apply two "coats" in one "application" which helps with the coverage and has only one dry cycle. If post baking after the solvents have flashed off, I sometimes go up to 200F if I'm in a hurry. Too hot and the solvents will boil and the finish will be ugly. How hot? I generally go for just hot enough to be uncomfortable to touch. It also helps to avoid sags in the paint. Warming the part before applying the enamel seems to help too. Round numbers, a chemical reaction's rate doubles for every 18 fahrenheit degrees so you don't have to make it a lot warmer to see a big benefit in cure time. I have had good luck adding some japan dryer to the paint to catalyze the cure and, if possible, heating the part in an oven or with a heater fan or something to warm up the part. So, you can probably apply multiple coats within the one hour window over and over, but the resulting film will take a long time to harden. It will skin over where the top layer of paint is exposed to air, but the rest of the material in the can will not harden up for weeks, months or ever (for practical purposes). You can see this if you leave a can of enamel open for a long time. The thicker the paint film, the longer the cure time since the thick film inhibits the availability of air to the lower layers of paint. Unlike lacquer type finishes which dry through the evaporation of a solvent, enamels will not re-disolve in their own solvent once they are cured which, as pointed out above, can take a long time. Enamel cures via a chemical reaction between air and the drying oils in the paint.
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